The long awaited Bouchon Bakery cookbook is out, and it does not disappoint. Written
by Thomas Keller and his acclaimed executive pastry chef Sebastien Rouxel, this
400-page book is big and beautiful, with lots of color photos of luscious baked
goods and the two chefs, in relaxed settings, working their magic. This image is in sharp contrast to the precise formality of Keller's kitchens.
When I was lucky enough to take a tour of the $9,000,000 Per Se kitchen a few
years ago, I almost felt like I was in a church or a library; you could hear a
pin drop, the staff working efficiently and quietly without the banter that I
was accustomed to during my days in professional kitchens. The place was also
so spotless you could
eat off the floor (though that would probably be frowned
upon). But back to the book: Bouchon Bakery is full of Keller’s personal
anecdotes and memories. He recalls, for example, “I first made cake at my
mother’s side. It was a Duncan Hines cake mix, but the frosting was homemade.
Just to be with my mother in the kitchen
was special, since she worked long
hours to support us. I loved licking the beaters to get every bit of frosting.
Those moments were precious.” The book is divided into chapter on Cookies,
Scones & Muffins, Cakes, Tarts, Pâte à Choux, Brioche & Donuts, Puff
Pastry & Croissants, Breads, and Confections. There are lots of recipes I
want to make, but I started with a seasonal one, jumbo Pumpkin Muffins. They
were moist, tender and very flavorful, filled with an ultra-creamy and
not-too-sweet cream cheese frosting. Just right for a grande snack,
Bouchon-style. I heartily recommend the muffins, and this wonderful new book, which is already a best-seller.
Pumpkin
Muffins
Recipe from Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan,
2012)
Makes 6 jumbo muffins
Batter:
1 ¼ cups plus 3 tablespoons (200 g)
all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
¾ plus 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
Pinch of ground allspice
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (222 g)
granulated sugar
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons (100 g) canola
oil
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (210 g) pure
canned pumpkin puree or fresh pumpkin puree
2 large (100g) eggs
½ cup plus ½ tablespoon (80 g) golden
raisins
Cream
Cheese Frosting:
8 ounces (226 g) cream cheese, at room
temperature
2/3 cup (76 g) confectioners’ sugar
¼ vanilla bean, split lengthwise
For
the batter:
1. Place the flour in a medium bowl. Sift
in the baking soda, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and allspice. Add the salt and
whisk to combine.
2. Combine the sugar and oil in the bowl
of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and mix on low speed for
about 1 minute. Add the pumpkin, increase the speed to medium-low, and mix for
about 1 minute, until smooth. Reduce the speed to low and add the eggs in two
additions, mixing for about 15 seconds after each, or until just combined.
3. Add the dry ingredients in two
additions, mixing on low speed for about 15 seconds after each, or until just
combined. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and scrape the bottom of the
bowl to incorporate any dry ingredients that may have settled there. Fold in
the raisins, if using. Trasfer the batter to a covered container and
refrigerate overnight, or for up to 36 hours.
To
bake the muffins:
4. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a
6-cup jumbo muffin pan with paper liners and spray the papers with non-stick
cooking spray.
5. Transfer the batter to a disposable
pastry bag and cut ½ inch of the tip from the bag; or use a large spoon. Pipe
or spoon the batter into the papers, stopping ½ inch from the top (140 grams in
each).
6. Put the pan in the oven, lower the
oven temperature to 325°F, and bake for 45 to 48 minutes, or until the muffins
are golden brown and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Set the
pan on a cooling rack and cool completely.
To
make the frosting:
7. Place the cream cheese in the bowl of
a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix on low speed until
smooth, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, add the
sugar, and pulse on the lowest speed to combine. Scrape the seeds from the
vanilla bean, add them to the mixture, and mix for 2 to 3 minutes, until
completely smooth. The frosting can be used at this point or refrigerated for
up to 3 days. If it has been refrigerated, let it sit at room temperature until
just cool to the touch, then transfer to a mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment and beat until smooth.
To
fill the muffins:
8. Using a 1 3/8-inch round pastry
cutter, cut through the top of each muffin, stopping ½ inch from the bottom,
and carefully remove the center (or use a paring knife to remove the centers).
9. Transfer the frosting to a disposable
pastry bag fitted with an Ateco #865 French star tip and fill the cavity of
each muffin with frosting. Then pipe a rosette in the center of each muffin.
Refrigerate uncovered for about 30 minutes to firm up the frosting.
