If you’ve ever
spent any time in South Florida, you know that good bread is nearly impossible
to find. In fact, when I want great bread, I find the best solution is to
simply make it. Luckily I love the process of mixing, kneading and baking,
punctuated by numerous periods of idle proofing and resting. This happens to be
one
of my favorite breads, a crusty loaf infused with fragrant fennel and
studded with sweet golden raisins. The technique comes from one of my favorite
bread bakers, Emmanuel Hadjiandreou, from his book How to Make Bread. I adapted Emmanuel’s Pecan Raisin Bread recipe,
upping the ratio of whole wheat flour and
substituting crushed fennel seeds for
the pecans. This recipe can easily be doubled, and the bread freezes well, as
long as it’s well wrapped. To do this loaf justice, serve it with a
European-style butter, such as President
or Plugra. It’s also wonderful
toasted with just about everything.
Makes 1
smallish loaf
1 tablespoon
fennel seeds
1 ½ cups (190
grams) bread flour
½ cup (60
grams) whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon
active dry yeast (not rapid rise)
¾ cup warm
filtered water
1/3 cup golden
raisins
1. Place the
fennel seeds in a small skillet over medium heat and cook, tossing frequently,
until the seeds are fragrant and toasted. Cool the seeds, then crush them with
a mortar and pestle.
2. In a medium
bowl, stir together the bread flour, whole wheat flour, salt and crushed fennel
seeds.
3. In a large
bowl, combine the yeast and warm water. Allow to stand for 5 minutes, then stir
to dissolve the yeast. Stir the flour mixture into the yeast mixture until a
dough forms. Knead gently with your hands a few times to form a smooth dough.
Cover the bowl with a tea towel and let stand for 10 minutes.
4. Add the
raisins to the dough and press them lightly in with your hands. Use your
fingers to stretch a portion of the dough out from the side and press it into
the center. Turn the bowl slightly and repeat with another portion of the
dough. Continue pulling and turning the dough 8 to 10 times, until the dough
begins to resist. Turn the dough so that it is seam side dough, cover the bowl
with the tea towel, and let rest for another 10 minutes. Repeat the pulling and
resting process two more times. Pull the dough another 8 to 10 times, turn it
seam side down, cover the bowl and allow to rest for 1 hour.
5. Punch the
dough down to release the air and place it on a floured work surface. Fold one
edge of the dough over into the middle, then fold the opposite edge over it.
Roll the dough into log with tapered ends. Lightly sprinkle flour over the loaf
and, using a sharp serrated knife, make shallow cuts diagonally over the top of
the loaf, spacing them about an inch apart (I went a bit too deep with my cuts). Place the dough on a baking sheet,
cover with the tea towel, and allow to rise 45 minutes, or until almost doubled
in volume. Meanwhile, place a roasting pan on the bottom of the oven and
preheat the oven to 475°F. Have a cup of cold water ready.
6. Remove the
tea towel from the loaf and place it in the oven. Carefully pour the water into
the roasting pan and lower the temperature to 400 degrees F; bake the bread for about 30 minutes, or until golden
brown. To check if the loaf is ready, tap its bottom—it should sound hollow. Set
the loaf on a wire rack and cool before slicing.
